{"id":39596,"date":"2026-07-05T08:00:03","date_gmt":"2026-07-05T15:00:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/?p=39596"},"modified":"2026-06-17T15:58:33","modified_gmt":"2026-06-17T22:58:33","slug":"the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/","title":{"rendered":"The Smell of Home: Lessons from the Ever-Anadromous Salmon"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As guides, most of our mileage, sights, and experiences were dictated by clients\u2019\u00a0wishes and bucket list items. We closely scanned the waterline for silhouettes of sea otters, harbor seals, and various other charismatic animals. We\u2019d toe the line between adventure and hazard, getting clients as close to the calving glacier as everyone&#8217;s safety would allow. Thus far on our trip up the Columbia River, we\u2019ve seen a variety of creatures and critters, including sea lions, baby turtles, raccoons, and the occasional fish jumping out of the water.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But this summer, our focus has shifted. Instead of hunting out the best chance to see a pinky leap out of the water, we became focused on the aspects of their journey we had previously overlooked. Not the picturesque humpback whale surfacing and spouting, but paddling through wing dams, dodging hunks of sheet metal from rusted boats, and carefully following the main channel to avoid becoming stranded in the algal blooms of the Columbia Slough. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instead of guiding clients through towering fjords, we are journeying up the Columbia and Snake rivers, letting the salmon be our guides and learning from them how to navigate the waters of their terminal migration upstream.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-39625\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123110\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_5-1000x667.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"970\" height=\"647\" srcset=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123110\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_5-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123110\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_5-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123110\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_5-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123110\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_5-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123110\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_5.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 970px) 100vw, 970px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In roughly the first 30 miles of the river, we made a couple foolish decisions. The main one being: we paddled in the middle of the channel, unknowingly battling much higher current and winds. To clarify, we were not paddling in a shipping lane, but tucked into an estuary where neither ships nor large vessels go. We heard not the sound of boat traffic, but the soft hiss of reed grass bending in the eastward breeze. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">After paddling through the tranquil estuary for a little while, with all its twists, turns, islands, and sand bars, we relaxed into the motion of it all. We made crossings from island to mainland, breaking away from the shore due to various strainers which were mostly downed trees. We took a lax approach, trying to cut corners around river bends until we left the estuary (but still not in the main shipping channel).<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Further upriver, the current against us was far stronger. As we marked our snail\u2019s-pace progress, we continued the habit we\u2019d developed in the estuary, cutting across the river when it appeared to shorten our route. Whether by illusion or reality, whenever we drifted close to shore, our speed seemed to increase dramatically. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">From there we island hopped, remaining well away from the wing dams on the Oregon side of the river. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Due to the current and ebbing tide, four hours into paddling we had hardly moved, but having chosen to paddle our way upriver rather than drift down it, we had already resigned ourselves to the Sisyphean slog. Albert Camus famously wrote, \u201cOne must imagine Sisyphus happy.\u201d With sweat running down our foreheads, carrying sunscreen and salt into our eyes where it burned like hot chili oil, we began to understand why: after millennia of uphill climbing, Sisyphus was probably jacked.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-39596 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_3x2_8\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123128\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_8-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_2x3_6\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123245\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_2x3_6-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">While we both love a good slog and pushing our bodies to the limit (we\u2019re both into sea kayaking and mountaineering), it was too early in the trip to be making such slow progress. We had to try something new. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Looking at Oregon\u2019s shoreline, we were nervous that the wing dams would greatly increase the distance we needed to paddle, taxing our bodies each time we would have to pass around them. But we didn\u2019t have any other options, and the only salmon we\u2019d seen thus far had its head bitten completely off\u2014not necessarily a good omen for the route we were traveling. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We decided to make the crossing to the Oregon side, our Nalgenes full of instant coffee for the next major push of the day. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As we stayed closer to shore, we realized we could use these wing dams as a kind of quasi-fish ladder: holding 20 or 30 feet off shore until reaching one, then ferrying out into the channel, slipping around its outer post, and leaping back into the slower water behind it. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">This slower water behind the dams encourages sediment to drop at the sides of the Columbia so the shipping lanes stay deep enough for the large barges. As we paddled feature to feature, our pace increased to around three miles per hour, and salmon were jumping out of the water next to us\u2014a much better omen than the first salmon we encountered.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-39596 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_3x2_7\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123122\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_7-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_3x2_4\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123103\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_4-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_3x2_1\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123045\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_1-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Yet as we passed them, we began to notice the wing dams\u2019 states of disrepair. Many consisted of partially detached creosote-soaked timbers that undulated from side to side, clanking against one another with each surge of current. Some of the outer posts were missing the pylons used to alert boaters of the wing dam, which sink just below the surface at high tide. Occasionally, we\u2019d see evidence of calamity: the remains of boats from previous wrecks sloshed against the pylons.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">These wrecks were never cleaned, nor were the wing dams repaired. But that didn\u2019t stop some sea lions from hanging out below them to try and catch fish. Nor did it stop the ospreys, which perched atop the outer posts in marvelous wicker-basket nests. Every time we passed, one or two birds launched skyward, whistling sharply as if to say: <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">don\u2019t you dare come any closer<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Several dove hard toward our boats before veering upward at the last moment.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Just past Rainier, Oregon, the wing dams became few and far between. We would occasionally get batches of them, protecting an island or marina from erosion, but not nearly as prevalent as before. From there, our strategy changed. Straying out too far into the channel would push us into conditions that had more current, wind, swell, and white-capping water. We needed to stay closer to shore for those reasons, but we decided to take some lessons from the salmon and use the eddy systems (though we are experienced sea kayakers, neither of us knew how to read a river). <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">These eddies propelled us forward, making the upstream slog considerably easier. Salmon, too, exploit these same slackwater eddies on their upstream climb. Like us, they move not by brute force alone, but by reading the river and slipping through its softer seams.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-39596 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_2x3_4\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123233\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_2x3_4-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_3x2_6\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123116\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_6-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As we paddled further upstream, we noticed paper mills and chemical plants rising from the water\u2019s edge like metal leviathans, their conveyor arms reaching into the channel to receive container ships, barges, and tugs. Lacking any real understanding of what happened inside those colossal machines, or who kept them running, it was easy to fall into an old mariner\u2019s instinct: <em>thar be monsters.<\/em> <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Occasionally we passed the ghosts of industry past: abandoned salmon canneries, rusted frameworks unmoored from any visible purpose, burned-out houseboats slowly surrendering to the current, and electrical wires slithering into the murky depths. Yet even here, life had adapted to the wreckage. Swallows nested beneath conveyor rails, seals hauled themselves onto abandoned concrete docks, and cattle grazed the neglected margins of chemical plants. Like the wing dams, these structures had become unlikely habitats, folded back into the river\u2019s ecology.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">What ultimately commanded our attention, however, was the smell. At first it drifted faintly on the wind, then settled around us in heavy drafts: steamed broccoli and sulfur. The paper mills that remain the economic lifeblood of the lower Columbia release sulfurous compounds as wood is broken down into pulp, and their odor hangs over the river for miles.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-39622\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123051\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_2-1000x667.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"970\" height=\"647\" srcset=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123051\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_2-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123051\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123051\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123051\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123051\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_2.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 970px) 100vw, 970px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If we could smell it from our kayaks, surely the salmon could too. Salmon navigate home by scent, following the particular chemical signature of their natal streams with astonishing precision. They smell their way back across hundreds of miles of ocean and river, tracing invisible gradients toward the gravel beds where they were born. Paddling beneath smokestacks and through that sulfurous haze, we couldn\u2019t help but wonder what the river smells like to them now.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">That question became less abstract one afternoon when we turned on Oregon Public Broadcasting. That morning, across from Rainier, a white-liquor tank imploded at the Nippon Dynawave paper mill, killing eleven people and sending 550,000 gallons of caustic chemicals into the web of sloughs and drainage channels that flow toward the Columbia. In the days that followed, response crews recovered nearly 2,000 dead fish from those waters. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But even with all the figures given, we found it hard not to think about what escapes measurement. Salmon navigate by gradients too faint for us to perceive, tracing homeward routes through molecular signatures dissolved in moving water. Their migration depends upon a chemistry so subtle that each tributary carries its own olfactory fingerprint. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For us, the lower Columbia announced itself through the blunt odors of industry: sulfur, steam, pulp, diesel. To a salmon, the river must be infinitely more articulate, every current carrying information.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-39596 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_2x3_1\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123216\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_2x3_1-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/07\/05\/the-smell-of-home-lessons-from-the-ever-anadromous-salmon\/dtd_anadromous_cmenten_3x2_3\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"100\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/d2kl15j267vxtq.cloudfront.net\/duct-tape\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/17123056\/DTD_Anadromous_CMenten_3x2_3-100x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We spent those days learning to read the Columbia by watching its surface: the bend of grass in the wind, the glassy seam behind a wing dam, the slow back-eddy curling against a post. We began the trip hoping to follow salmon upstream. Along the way, they taught us to read a river differently. The lesson was not simply where to paddle, but how much of the river exists beyond our own perception. To travel with salmon, even imperfectly, is to recognize that the Columbia is more than a route, a playground, or a backdrop. It is a homecoming corridor for countless lives moving through it.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The salmon read something deeper, following a map written in scent. A river can absorb remarkable insult and still keep moving seaward. It can carry our waste, our wreckage, our pilings and smokestacks, and still appear stable from a distance. But for creatures that know home by smell, endurance is not the same thing as invulnerability. Long before we register alarm, the river has already changed. The Columbia keeps flowing. The salmon keep searching. The question is, when they return, will home still smell like home?<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">***<\/p>\n<p><em>Guest contributor Eddie Newsom is a senior environmental studies major at Reed College and a summertime kayak guide. He started paddling at age 18 when he first started guiding in the Kodiak Archipelago, an island filled with bears, puffins, salmon, and memories. He returned up north for subsequent summers, kayaking the glacial fjords of Prince William Sound. When he\u2019s not on the water, he loves climbing volcanos, pickin\u2019 banjo, and organizing trips for his college\u2019s outing club. As an avid flip-phone user, you can\u2019t follow him on social media, but if you\u2019re lookin\u2019 for him, he\u2019ll be on the river!<\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>\u2013<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Guest contributor Caroline Menten is a senior English literature major and environmental humanities minor at Reed College. She grew up in Northern Colorado and spent most of her time in the foothills and mountains of the Rockies. Once she got to college, she got hooked on sea kayaking, and soon became a sea kayak guide in Prince William Sound, Alaska. She loves to explore the trails, climbs, and paddles of the Pacific Northwest whenever she doesn\u2019t have her nose deep in a book. But sometimes Amitav Ghosh is best read from a tent!<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Editor&#8217;s Note: To learn more about Caroline, Eddie, and why they&#8217;re paddling upstream on the Columbia and Snake Rivers, read: <a href=\"https:\/\/community.nrs.com\/duct-tape\/2026\/05\/21\/so-what-are-you-doing-this-summer\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">So, What Are You Doing This Summer?<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>You can follow their journey at <a href=\"http:\/\/returningagainsthecurrent.com\/\"><u>returningagainsthecurrent.com.\u00a0<\/u><\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As guides, most of our mileage, sights, and experiences were dictated by clients\u2019\u00a0wishes and bucket list items. We closely scanned the waterline for silhouettes of&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":47981,"featured_media":39618,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[336,680],"tags":[846,41,838,311,681],"class_list":["post-39596","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-explore","category-guide-stories","tag-columbia-river","tag-kayak-touring","tag-salmon","tag-sea-kayak","tag-snake-river","post-grid"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.9 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The Smell of Home: Lessons from the Ever-Anadromous Salmon | Duct Tape Diaries | NRS<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Eddie and Caroline journey up the Columbia River guided by its original navigators: salmon returning home from the sea.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, 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